Replacing broken zips on treasured garments

A small part with a big job

A zip takes a great deal of strain over the life of a garment. When it splits, sticks or loses its pull, a perfectly good coat, dress or pair of trousers can end up at the back of the wardrobe. Replacing it is often far more sensible than replacing the garment.

Why zips fail

Common causes include:

• Teeth bent or missing after catching on fabric.
• A worn slider that no longer closes the teeth properly.
• Strain from a close fit, especially across the waist.
• The tape tearing away from the fabric.
• Corrosion on metal zips used outdoors or near the sea.

Repair or replace?

If only the pull has broken, a new pull may be enough. A slider that has worn can occasionally be swapped. More often, especially when the teeth are damaged, the whole zip needs replacing. That means unpicking the old zip, matching a new one in length, weight and colour, and stitching it in so it lies flat.

Choosing the right zip

Different garments need different zips. Dresses and skirts often use concealed zips that vanish into the seam. Trousers and jeans use sturdy fly zips. Coats and jackets need open-ended zips that come apart at the bottom, sometimes two-way so they can be opened from below. Leather and outdoor clothing need heavier zips.

Treasured pieces

For older or delicate garments, a sympathetic replacement is chosen to suit the style, so a vintage dress does not end up with a chunky modern zip. If you are near Christchurch and have a garment that has gone unworn because of a zip, bring it to Golden Button on Bargates to see what can be done.