The right length
A classic guide is that a jacket sleeve should finish around the wrist bone, allowing a little shirt cuff to show. With arms relaxed by your sides, the sleeve should not cover the base of the thumb. Sleeves that are too long make even a fine jacket look borrowed.
How sleeves are shortened
There are two main methods. Shortening from the cuff involves unpicking the lining, taking up the hem and reattaching everything, then moving the buttons. Shortening from the shoulder removes and resets the sleeve head, which is used when the cuff cannot be touched. The cuff method is far more common.
Why the buttons matter
Many jackets have decorative buttons stitched on over closed buttonholes. These are easy to move. Jackets with working buttonholes — ones that actually open — cannot simply be shortened from the cuff without the buttonholes ending up in the wrong place. In these cases, options are more limited.
- Decorative buttons: straightforward to reposition.
- Working buttonholes: limited options, assessed individually.
- Vents or zips at the cuff: need extra care.
Coats and casual jackets
The same principles apply to overcoats, blazers and many casual jackets. Lined coats take a little longer, and quilted or waterproof jackets can need specialist handling. Leather sleeves may show old stitch holes if the length is changed.
Getting it right
Wear the shirt or jumper you usually wear under the jacket when it is pinned. Bring both sleeves for checking; arms are often slightly different lengths. Golden Button on Bargates, Christchurch, will measure both and discuss the result you would like.
Related service
Find out more about suit alterations at Golden Button, or contact the workshop on Bargates in Christchurch.
Questions people ask
Can sleeves be lengthened?
Only if there is enough fabric folded inside the cuff. Check by turning the sleeve inside out at the lining.
Should both sleeves be the same length?
Not always. Arms often differ slightly, and sleeves can be adjusted individually.