Trouser alterations: what a proper fit looks like

Why fit matters more than size

Trousers are among the most commonly altered garments, partly because ready-made sizes rarely match real bodies. You might find a pair that fits perfectly at the waist but is far too long, or comfortable in the leg but gaping at the back. Small changes can make an inexpensive pair look considerably smarter.

The waist and seat

A well-fitting waistband sits comfortably without a belt doing all the work. You should be able to slide two fingers inside it. At the back, the seat should follow your shape without pulling into horizontal creases or hanging in folds. Taking in the waist and centre-back seam is one of the most frequent trouser alterations, and letting out is sometimes possible where there is fabric inside the seam.

The hem: break or no break

The 'break' is the soft fold where the trouser meets the shoe. A little break suits most classic trousers; cropped and tapered styles often look neater with none. What matters most is that you are not walking on the back of the hem.

Always bring, or wear, the shoes you will wear most often. A difference of an inch in heel height changes everything.

• Formal trousers: a slight break at the front, just covering the top of the shoe.
• Casual chinos: little or no break.
• Jeans: often finished with the original hem replaced, so the worn look is kept.
• Wide-leg trousers: usually close to the floor with heeled shoes.

Turn-ups and finishes

Turn-ups add weight that helps a trouser hang well, particularly in wool. They can sometimes be added or removed during shortening, depending on how much fabric is available. Hand-finished hems are less visible on smart trousers; machine hems are practical for everyday wear.

Bringing trousers in

At Golden Button on Bargates, trousers are usually pinned while you wear them. If you cannot come in for a fitting, a pair that fits you well can be used as a guide. Ring 07918 554569 to check opening hours before you visit.